Annuals for Specific Locations
Planting Annuals
Buying Plants
Bedding plants are sold in a variety of ways depending on the grower and the size of the plant. You may buy them in very convenient "cell packs", not so convenient flats, or individual pots. When you grow your own bedding plants, you control this factor.
When to Plant
There are three time frames and processes to consider when answering this question:
1. Seeding indoors.
2. Direct seeding outdoors.
3. Transplanting seedlings outdoors.
For information on when to start seeds indoors, check the seed packages for basic planting information, and use Gardenersweb Annuals Planting Guide for definitive information on starting your own annual flowers.
Many fine seeded annuals need to be broadcast over the seed tray. Subsequently, and very early on in their growth they must be "pricked out" into larger flats or cell packs, and grown on until ready to transplant outdoors.
Pricking out is a painstaking, but necessary procedure with many species. Planting microscopic seeds individually is highly impractical, and justifies the additional step. When the seedlings are large enough to be gently grasped or pinched between the thumb and forefinger, they can be transplanted or pricked out.
Some annuals grow rapidly enough to enable direct seeding outdoors, but many must be started indoors in order to give them time to mature in a short northern growing season. Again consult the seed packets for recommended planting times. Slow-germinating seeds may actually be planted outdoors prior to the average last spring frost date, but check the GardenersWeb Annual Planting Guide for such information.
The third process is transplanting seedlings outdoors after the risk of frost has passed. This involves a hardening-off or conditioning process. Plants are introduced to the outdoors gradually by being moved outside daily when the temperature is above freezing by several degrees to a partially sunny and protected location. If you are buying plants from a garden center, determine if they have been hardened-off or if they are still tender. If they have been so conditioned, and it is not possible for you to plant them right away, keep them in a lightly shaded area, be sure to water them as needed, and protect them from drying winds. Don't be in a rush to plant early, as most annuals prefer warm soils and stable temperatures.
How to Plant
When you are ready to plant, lift plants from the cell packs or pots. The best way to do this is to either gently squeeze or push up the bottom of the container if pliable, or turn it upside down, tap it lightly, and the plant will fall into your hand.
With larger plants in pots, roll them over, gently squeeze the sides of the pot, and the plant can usually be readily pulled out. This works best if the plants are slightly dry at the time. If the roots are extremely compacted, it is a good idea to loosen the roots slightly by either breaking the soil ball apart slightly or cutting the sides of the root ball with a knife. This loosening helps to encourage better rooting in the garden bed.
If transplanting plants grown in individual peat pots, experience and research have shown that it is best to remove the pot. If left on, it can act as a wick and dry out the roots around the interior of the peat pot.
If you have purchased plants in flats without individual cells, separate the plants gently by hand or use a knife to cut the plants apart.
Ideally, the garden bed should be evenly moist but not too wet at planting time.
Plants should be set in the garden, level with or just slightly lower than the soil surface. Carefully firm the soil around the plant, and water well to wash soil down around the root ball and eliminate air pockets. An application of a liquid fertilizer with a high phosphorous (middle number), often called starter fertilizer, may prove beneficial at this time. Follow the directions on the fertilizer container.